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(Be aware: The majority of the wave speeds calculated through the wavelength divided with the time period are proportional to the square root in the duration.

These examples are programmatically compiled from numerous on the internet sources As an example existing use from the phrase 'swell.' Any thoughts expressed during the examples never represent those of Merriam-Webster or its editors. Ship us comments about these illustrations.

The phases of the ocean surface area wave: one. Wave Crest, where by the h2o masses from the surface layer are going horizontally in exactly the same path given that the propagating wavefront.

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lessen lower diminish dwindle lessen abate decrease downsize subtract (from) shorten curtail abbreviate abridge minify compress constrict agreement condense de-escalate Minimize Swell back retrench See Additional

For initial conditions of the flat water surface (Beaufort Scale 0) and abrupt crosswind flows around the area on the water, the generation of area wind waves could be defined by two mechanisms, which happen to be initiated by normal strain fluctuations of turbulent winds and parallel wind shear flows.

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Within the standpoint of a physicist this effect is of extra interest as it exhibits how, what starts off as being a random wave field, can crank out the buy of a long practice of swell waves at the cost of the Electricity losses and enhanced condition impacting all the modest breaking waves.

Waves in a very offered location commonly have A selection of heights. For climate reporting and for scientific Evaluation of wind wave figures, their characteristic height over a time interval is generally expressed as significant wave top. This figure represents a median top of the very best one particular-third in the waves within a provided time period (typically selected someplace in the range between 20 minutes to twelve hours), or in a selected wave or storm process.

Whilst The ocean state within the storm has a frequency spectrum with kind of a similar form (i.e. a properly defined peak with dominant frequencies in just as well as or minus 7% of the peak), the swell spectra are Increasingly more narrow, in some cases as 2% or less, as waves disperse even further and even further away.